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Post by greyelephant on Aug 14, 2006 16:04:35 GMT -5
NO, Phoenix is a nurse, and she says it was just the "padding" on the fingertip so I doctor wouldn't do much.
So we just took the lump of skin that was in my lap, held it in place and bandaged it back up. My finger looks pretty good now, but you can see a faint circle of the old missing pad.Thanks for ruining my spaghetti Dinner Joe! I'm thinking I'd just swap out the base using a heat gun and something sharp. But thats just me.Now that's thinking outside the box!
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Post by YodaBreaker on Aug 14, 2006 19:19:36 GMT -5
I'm thinking I'd just swap out the base using a heat gun and something sharp. But thats just me. The big problem I'd see with this is that unless the bases being swapped out are identical, there'll be mismatches between the figure and its special power, ratio, and figure name, among other things. In that case, why not just use the original figure (unless the original figure's base is fine but the actual figure is toast, making a Frankenstein figure more tenable)? Or am I totally misunderstanding this suggestion? Oh, and Joe, I'd visions of a full fingertip lying in your lap, with significant muscular and tendon severage, so I'm glad to know it was "only" the pad. Seriously, man, if you're trying to remove your fingerprints to conduct various and nefarious dealings, there are easier (but perhaps not less painful) ways of doing it
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AWOL
40 Point Warrior
Warning: Kissing Chihuahua On Head Causes Sporadic Pooping, Urination, and Biting
Posts: 820
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Post by AWOL on Aug 14, 2006 22:15:45 GMT -5
I wonder if a thin layer of glue from a glue gun might act like the rubber of the wheel. It might be possible to apply a thin layer bit by bit and letting the visible part dry off first before pushing it forward to get the rest of the wheel, letting each "section" dry (so the wheel doesn't glue stuck). Never tried anything like that...
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Locke333
30 Point Warrior
"Don't mistake coincidence for fate."
Posts: 756
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Post by Locke333 on Aug 15, 2006 11:02:22 GMT -5
you could just glue the guy to a different base, like a clone trooper, and rewrite the effect and labels
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Post by superflytnt on Aug 15, 2006 14:48:13 GMT -5
I wonder if a thin layer of glue from a glue gun might act like the rubber of the wheel. It might be possible to apply a thin layer bit by bit and letting the visible part dry off first before pushing it forward to get the rest of the wheel, letting each "section" dry (so the wheel doesn't glue stuck). Never tried anything like that... I considered that, but just like a car, if you don't have a uniform layer or the diameter of the wheel is different it changes the RPM (so to speak) and hence the click and movement rate. Had to get a loan for a BIG $ amount so I've still to dissect the old boy.
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AWOL
40 Point Warrior
Warning: Kissing Chihuahua On Head Causes Sporadic Pooping, Urination, and Biting
Posts: 820
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Post by AWOL on Aug 15, 2006 15:30:00 GMT -5
Hmm... never thought about the possible change in diameter. If I had a bum wheel, I think the only real solution is Ebay. Just find a cheap replacement of the same fig.
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Post by superflytnt on Aug 15, 2006 15:40:15 GMT -5
I've actually done some 'field research' and the rubber wheel diameter is the same for all figures as best I can tell (down to .0005") that I tested, which was the Admiral Ackbar (died a horrible death), Bossk (not so bad), Luke Skywalker 3-21 (he's now an amputee), and the ATST driver (another KIA). So far my biggest hassle is to get the base apart without damaging the wall that's on the circumference (cylinder walls both inside and outside).
That's the conundrum I face...can't use chemicals and a knife/thin blade is prone to break the inside or outside walls. I am considering a diabetes syringe loaded with some acetone or another solvent of cyanoacrylates (superglues), but that's still a bit dangerous in my mind as it may end up seating the wheel or blind parts inside.
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Post by YodaBreaker on Aug 15, 2006 18:35:24 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm not sure there are any foolproof ways inside the base I've used the Xacto-like knife, but you can also see the hideous results. Then again, I'm not a craftsman, so it was the first time I'd done anything like that in years. I'd agree that a syringe of solvent wouldn't be a good solution, as it could drip in untoward places.
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Post by superflytnt on Aug 15, 2006 23:44:23 GMT -5
I have a SOLUTION!!!! I'm having a sheetmetal cylinder made - 440 half-hard stainless steel. I'm going to angle-grind it down on one side for a blade, and I will tig weld it shut on the seam, so that it's VERY close to the I.D. of the outer base ring. With luck, it should slide in that gap like a .... well it should slide in pretty slick, and then it will pop easily off....in theory.
Have to source the metals and measure!!! If it works, I'll publish instructions!
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Post by buttersstotch on Aug 16, 2006 4:46:07 GMT -5
My Comment about the heatgun and swapping bases are fully based on something a Local guy had. His Series 1 Vader's base broke, But the figure was also the most wicked striker, ever. Like it was twice as hard as it should be. So He still wanted his figure of death, so he wanted me to fix the problem. So I swapped out the base with another S1 Vader. And Tada He had his WMD again. Now this is only an option if the figure itself has a Special Power. Such as a stronger more powerful spring.
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