Post by attacktixman on Oct 1, 2007 10:41:08 GMT -5
Thanks, JW18 & Leumas.
Used Capt. Antilles Gun, Scout Troopers arms, leg/torso. The head, upper body/chest, "skirt"(?) came from SW Unleashed Hoth Snow Troopers Battle Pack. Look for these on sale or buy 2 get 1 free at Toys R US. Testors flat white acryl paint.
Need to fill hole in gun, "dirty" up boots and glue to tix base w/ label. Just got Malform's TixTool, its fantastic!, so now will be making all those labels w/ faction symbols.
Post by phoenixflood on Oct 2, 2007 22:11:05 GMT -5
I think that is a good use for those unleashed figures in the small packages. You've done well. It makes me want to go out and buy a pack. I bet a Aayla secura unleashed head, an Elektra body, some blue and brown paint, and two light sabers would make for a great custom!
Post by attacktixman on Oct 3, 2007 7:50:45 GMT -5
Okay, this is what SuperFly and I are so excited about! (see Superfly's earlier thread) This is a proof of principle and ProtoType Sentinel Mega! And its more simple than I thought! If you like Marvel Tix at all, we gotta do this, don't even need to be a customizer! The video quality is pretty cruddy, no "film crew" and poor lighting.
Updated last vid, yes,I violated some major Attacktix rules!
Does anyone want to work on this together? Used clear tape on knees for now & small tix base on back of boots. C'mon folks, let's do it! Lets agree upon his powers, etc and you can still get them relatively cheap if you shop around!
Post by attacktixman on Oct 3, 2007 9:32:55 GMT -5
Each knee has a spring loaded detent mechanism in it. When the "kneecap" is hit hard enough, the boot tip flies out. When the second kneecap is hit, the last boot tip flies out also and the Sentinel topples over!
I really hope enough of us get excited about this so we can make it a group effort in further design development and game play. They are still available and don't cost much more than a factory made Mega.
Post by superflytnt on Oct 3, 2007 14:25:28 GMT -5
LOL....what are the odds of us both seeing this and thinking TIX FODDER at the same time without even discussing it!!!
I have some ideas on how to implement this and remain true to the game. Use a Sandman base with the bits'n'pieces removed and shave it flat, then fabricate a baseplate for Sentinel to sit on of Luon board that's been sanded, painted and acrylic coated. This is what ol' boy stands on.
To make it Tix-curate, apply a simply brass hinge to the heels (rear of heels), and shave off the mechanism that launches the feet. put a pin in the place of the mechanism and FIX the feet so that instead of the feet flying forward the entire body is pushed backward, flexing on the hinge and reeling backward to it's death.
Unfortunately, I am BROKE AS A JOKE. I can't afford to buy one, cheap as they may be, so it's all up to you TixMan!
Post by attacktixman on Oct 3, 2007 15:22:37 GMT -5
Hey, PhoenixFlood, love your Aayla idea! I've been hoping that Hasbro will do an Aayla Secura, Bariss Offee and Luminara Unduli but obviously that wouldn't be any sooner than a SW Series 6 (if it goes that far). But I'd love to see her done as a custom using Elektra!
Post by attacktixman on Oct 3, 2007 15:27:31 GMT -5
Whoa, fantastic Sentinel design plans, SuperFly!!! We'll commiserate more on this. Seems like I got a buddy in the design team area (more welcome!), how 'bout in the powers, special, pts., effect area?
Definitely gotta work him out to topple backward. After all, if defeating that monster gets my entire team killed, I wouldn't feel that great about it...
It should also be noted that the Sentinel mold has been issued three or four times now... waaaaay back in the early '90s with the 5" X-Men, again in the early '00s (and, I think, a KB Toys exclusive), and again just a few years ago with the (fan-named) X3 toyline. Hunt around a bit, and you can find at least two different paint jobs between those, and I would imagine that the old one could be found VERY cheap in a lot of places.
Post by superflytnt on Oct 3, 2007 22:17:41 GMT -5
Effect Plaque: If Sentinel captures a figure, and is defeated, place the figure on your starting line. Special: Jam X-Men SP% = 13/26 (50%) Speed: 8 Points: 80
Oh, and forgot this question: Is this a molded plastic figure, or are the leg halves screwed together? Is there a gap in the knee socket? If you can, open the legs and shave the post or cut the spring (one revolution at a time) to get the hit-strength right. If you can't do that, then you could put a drop (puff) of graphite lock lubricant in the joint and that should allow a bit softer touch.
As for the falling mechanism, I've got a plan- 1. Glue toes on permanently. 2. Use sandman base (shaved and platformed) and affix said Sentinel. BE SURE TO CHECK BALANCE!!! Do a test run before you epoxy the feet to the base - mark it with washable crayon AND MASK THE AREAS outside the crayon, then apply the epoxy and place the dude on the base. Be a shame to get to #17 and realize he can't stand up. 3. Remove bottom plate, correct bottom white panel w/ acryl paint for correct % of SP. 3a. With NO GUTS in the base assembly, reattach the bottom, but don't fasten it. 4. Drill up through the leg of the sentinel with a 1/2" drill until you get to the knee joint. Keep drilling up about 1/2 inch past knee into thigh. 4a. Remove the bottom of the base (with 2 shiny new holes in it). 5. Insert springs into leg - use 1/2" dia. springs you can get from a gun store and chop them to 1/2"x3/4". 6. The knee (exterior) should be there just fine. Remove the knees (outward) and prep the interior surface. 7. Out of a sheet of metal, like a ruler or something reasonably thick, saw or snip off a piece as thick as the leg is wide, and as long as the hole is deep to the back (inside where you drilled) wall is. 8. Shape that into a rectangle that will slide in/out of the knee hole, but cut out an area in the side so that it looks like a squared-off smiley face. In the end it would look like the letter "U" made with wooden blocks, 3 wide and 2 high, if you catch my meaning. 9. Take a wooden dowel, that's 1/2" around and 1/2 inch taller than the hole you drilled, and bevel one edge 10-20 degrees, like the end of a tanto knife. This is just to help mark the forward side for later use. The bevel is not required. 10. Put the dowel into the hole-leg you drilled, up past the base with the bevel upwards. The bevel (slanted side) should be visible in the knee hole where the hit plates are. If it's a tight fit, simply sand the dowel down to size. 11. Drill a small 3/16 hole in the ankles, from the sides through the leg, and into the wood just a bit. 12. With a hand saw AND A VISE, cut a shallow channel on the same plane of the little hole you just drilled along the length of the dowel. 13. Nip off a TINY little bit of a finish nail, one for each leg. It should be JUST shorter then the depth of that little hole and the depth of the sawed channel combined. 14. Put the dowels in against the spring, install the little nipped off nail pieces into the ankle. If you did this right, the dowel will slide up and down, but not rotate in the hole. 15. Pushing the dowels in as far as you can, put a sharpie dot on the wooden dowels through the knee-hole hit pads. 16. Remove the dowels, epoxy in the little nipped nails on the ankles. 17. Shave the dowels to mate with the catches. Allow for 'oopses' and go slow on this part. Make sure to remove enough dowel material from behind where the catch hits so that the stroke of the dowel is where you want it. The catch controls the depth of the dowel extension as well as the release.
The reason for the little metal bits is to make a device similar to a magazine catch on a gun. You will chisel or dremel a catch that will release the dowel when the knee is hit. The metal bits are epoxied to the back of the knee pad, and when struck they release the dowel, propelled downward by the 3/4" spring for the purpose of lifting the entire assembly off of the table pursuant to normal Attacktix figures and Megas. If you REALLY wanted to get fancypants, you could add in a spring to behind the catches to allow for easier reset.
Last Edit: Oct 3, 2007 22:48:54 GMT -5 by superflytnt