Post by superflytnt on Mar 16, 2007 9:11:28 GMT -5
I've noticed quite a bit of problems with some folks' (not Joe Manzo's, of course ;D ) paint jobs, such as running, and other problematic issues, so I figured I'd share my 20 years of paint experience (and stealing info from other sites on modelling):
Paint Selection
For Attacktix, there really are only three good choices, Acrylic, Enamel, and Lacquer.
Lacquer (Should NOT use on Attacktix unless you have to...)
Lacquer paints use organic solvents as their base. Organic solvents are hazardous to you and others, plus lacquers just plain smell nasty. I've read that these chemicals are classified in the same area as nerve gas agents. Organic solvents are also found in modeling glue, it melts plastic and as such can cause damage you to! If you're not sure about what lacquer can do get some lacquer thinner from a hardware store and drop a fly into it, and watch what happens.
That's the dark side of lacquer paints. The good side of the force is, because these organic solvents are so volatile, they also evaporate the quickest of the three paint types, hence they cure the fastest. Also, since they're such a tough bunch of chemicals, the pigment and carrier is also very 'tough' - that is, sticks great to plastic and polishes out well. Won't flake off easily like acrylics. They also go on in thin coats, which is great at preserving detail.
Lacquer thinner is used to thin lacquer paints. Lacquer thinners can be any of the following: Paint manufacturer's thinner (Mr. Color Thinner, for example), hardware store lacquer thinner, Xylene, Toulene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, acetone, among others. Acetone is probably the nastiest of the above.
You must use a suitable lacquer primer underneath lacquer paints. Remember above how the solvents in lacquer paints are the same solvents used in glue? Spray too much lacquer paint onto a model, and it will begin to melt your model. A lacquer primer will prevent this, because the carrier and pigment of the primer are strong enough to not be melted by the lacquer paint. Tamiya primer, Duplicolor primer, Plastikote primer, Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer, any 'lacquer' primer is suitable.
Enamel (I used to use 99% of the time, but they NEVER dry):
There are ZOUNDS of enamel paints out there, but I've always relied on Testor's due to availability and quality.
Here's the properties of enamel:
Enamel paints are some what outdated. The solvent they use mineral spirits and petroleum distillates take a LONG time to evaporate and cure out. They also tend to go on extremely thick and run easily allowing paint drops to start sliding down the model messing up your paint job. They can take weeks, even months to cure completely, and even then remain relatively soft when compared to lacquer paints.
The good part is that they aren't very volatile. Petroleum doesn't harm plastic and they do rock for brush painting since they're thicker and take longer to dry than acrylics and lacquers, it gives you a lot more time to play with it and get it just 'right'. They tend to go only where your brush goes, unlike acrylics which run all over the place and dry unevenly!
Enamel paints are thinned with mineral spirits and the above mentioned lacquer thinners, besides the paint manufacturer's recommended thinner.
Acrylics (These are now proven best - see DVandom's stuff):
Perhaps the best general purpose paint for any type of model work. They can be described as 'water-soluble' as in able to be thinner by water, but for the most part use isopropyl alcohol . There are many advantages to them. One, isopropyl alcohol isn't very dangerous Two, it dries very quickly. It's like lacquer paint but without all the dangerous effects. After application, parts painted with acrylics can be carefully handled after just a few hours. Be careful of getting fingerprints onto it, it's dry to the touch but still very soft.
Three, they're easy to clean when using with an airbrush. Windex, rubbing alcohol, even water can clean an airbrush nicely after airbrushing with acrylics.
The bad part about acrylics is that they don't polish very well in most cases. The acrylic pigment and carrier time take a long time to crosslink, and they don't stick very well to the model. Generally if you're painting with acrylic color, paint over it with an enamel or lacquer based clear coat, to polish it out best.
FINAL THOUGHTS:
The best thing to do is use an enamel paint to color the project, not only because of the ease of use, but because it is very tough after curing. The downside it that it takes forever and a day (like 2 weeks, realistically, in a large, open garage at 50 degrees) to cure. If you REALLY want to make it last, though, use an ACRYLIC CLEARCOAT (versus enamel or lacquer) or you WILL melt the enamel off. Also be sure to mask off the areas that you don't want to be permanently fixed, sich as the waist, arms, and in some cases legs. dental floss is GREAT for the waist and arms, and in a lot of cases, head. If you DO end up messing up and getting paint where you don't want it, like in the crack in the waist, then get some Testor's Model Sanding Film. It's very thin, and tough, and comes in very high grit ranges. It's also about 4$ for a pack with various grits in it. Slide this into the waist crack by tilting (gently!!!!!) the body, then hold it with a couple of fingers while rotating the top (or bottom) half of the figure. This really works well on customs, as well as the evil Royal guard that never swings well.
Cheers!
Paint Selection
For Attacktix, there really are only three good choices, Acrylic, Enamel, and Lacquer.
Lacquer (Should NOT use on Attacktix unless you have to...)
Lacquer paints use organic solvents as their base. Organic solvents are hazardous to you and others, plus lacquers just plain smell nasty. I've read that these chemicals are classified in the same area as nerve gas agents. Organic solvents are also found in modeling glue, it melts plastic and as such can cause damage you to! If you're not sure about what lacquer can do get some lacquer thinner from a hardware store and drop a fly into it, and watch what happens.
That's the dark side of lacquer paints. The good side of the force is, because these organic solvents are so volatile, they also evaporate the quickest of the three paint types, hence they cure the fastest. Also, since they're such a tough bunch of chemicals, the pigment and carrier is also very 'tough' - that is, sticks great to plastic and polishes out well. Won't flake off easily like acrylics. They also go on in thin coats, which is great at preserving detail.
Lacquer thinner is used to thin lacquer paints. Lacquer thinners can be any of the following: Paint manufacturer's thinner (Mr. Color Thinner, for example), hardware store lacquer thinner, Xylene, Toulene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, acetone, among others. Acetone is probably the nastiest of the above.
You must use a suitable lacquer primer underneath lacquer paints. Remember above how the solvents in lacquer paints are the same solvents used in glue? Spray too much lacquer paint onto a model, and it will begin to melt your model. A lacquer primer will prevent this, because the carrier and pigment of the primer are strong enough to not be melted by the lacquer paint. Tamiya primer, Duplicolor primer, Plastikote primer, Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer, any 'lacquer' primer is suitable.
Enamel (I used to use 99% of the time, but they NEVER dry):
There are ZOUNDS of enamel paints out there, but I've always relied on Testor's due to availability and quality.
Here's the properties of enamel:
Enamel paints are some what outdated. The solvent they use mineral spirits and petroleum distillates take a LONG time to evaporate and cure out. They also tend to go on extremely thick and run easily allowing paint drops to start sliding down the model messing up your paint job. They can take weeks, even months to cure completely, and even then remain relatively soft when compared to lacquer paints.
The good part is that they aren't very volatile. Petroleum doesn't harm plastic and they do rock for brush painting since they're thicker and take longer to dry than acrylics and lacquers, it gives you a lot more time to play with it and get it just 'right'. They tend to go only where your brush goes, unlike acrylics which run all over the place and dry unevenly!
Enamel paints are thinned with mineral spirits and the above mentioned lacquer thinners, besides the paint manufacturer's recommended thinner.
Acrylics (These are now proven best - see DVandom's stuff):
Perhaps the best general purpose paint for any type of model work. They can be described as 'water-soluble' as in able to be thinner by water, but for the most part use isopropyl alcohol . There are many advantages to them. One, isopropyl alcohol isn't very dangerous Two, it dries very quickly. It's like lacquer paint but without all the dangerous effects. After application, parts painted with acrylics can be carefully handled after just a few hours. Be careful of getting fingerprints onto it, it's dry to the touch but still very soft.
Three, they're easy to clean when using with an airbrush. Windex, rubbing alcohol, even water can clean an airbrush nicely after airbrushing with acrylics.
The bad part about acrylics is that they don't polish very well in most cases. The acrylic pigment and carrier time take a long time to crosslink, and they don't stick very well to the model. Generally if you're painting with acrylic color, paint over it with an enamel or lacquer based clear coat, to polish it out best.
FINAL THOUGHTS:
The best thing to do is use an enamel paint to color the project, not only because of the ease of use, but because it is very tough after curing. The downside it that it takes forever and a day (like 2 weeks, realistically, in a large, open garage at 50 degrees) to cure. If you REALLY want to make it last, though, use an ACRYLIC CLEARCOAT (versus enamel or lacquer) or you WILL melt the enamel off. Also be sure to mask off the areas that you don't want to be permanently fixed, sich as the waist, arms, and in some cases legs. dental floss is GREAT for the waist and arms, and in a lot of cases, head. If you DO end up messing up and getting paint where you don't want it, like in the crack in the waist, then get some Testor's Model Sanding Film. It's very thin, and tough, and comes in very high grit ranges. It's also about 4$ for a pack with various grits in it. Slide this into the waist crack by tilting (gently!!!!!) the body, then hold it with a couple of fingers while rotating the top (or bottom) half of the figure. This really works well on customs, as well as the evil Royal guard that never swings well.
Cheers!